Politics

Reyner Banham Loves Los Angeles: The Lowdown on Downtown

Join your host Richard Schave, the founding director of the Downtown LA Art Walk non-profit, on a tour that reveals the secret history, and the fascinating future, of this most beguiling LA neighborhood.

This is a tour about the populated, vibrant mid-20th Century Downtown Los Angeles you've only heard about, and about the 21st Century Downtown which will rise again with a richness of heritage and quality of life that leaves natives and visitors gaping in disbelief. This is a tour about Downtown's invisible neighborhoods and great public spaces which managed to escape the wrecking ball. This is a tour about how gentrification sprung up on the city's meanest streets, with all the conflicts that go along with a major socio-economic shift in a small community. This is a tour about the real Los Angeles, the city even natives don't know. Get on the bus for the real Lowdown on Downtown, as no one but Esotouric's Richard Schave can reveal it.

Our tour begins in the corporate public spaces of Bunker Hill and Pershing Square, each the result of deliberate social engineering (the razing of old Bunker Hill which displaced 9,000 residents; the elimination of positive public space in Pershing Square to thwart public address and gatherings). We segue to the underappreciated yet extremely successful public spaces of the Historic Core and then to the emerging live/work community of The Old Bank District, where developer Tom Gilmore’s gentrification and the popular monthly Art Walk are bringing life to spaces which have been dead for decades. The tour concludes in the DIY loft spaces of the Arts District for a reception at an artist's gallery.

Having studied under architecture critic Reyner Banham in the mid-1980s, tour host Richard Schave has taken it upon himself to correct his teacher’s gross oversight of downtown Los Angeles, relegated to a dismissive coda in his seminal Los Angeles guidebook Los Angeles: The Architecture of Four Ecologies. Richard and his wife Kim Cooper work extensively with the history and lost cultures of downtown in their bus tours, in their work placing Art Walk into a non-profit, on blogs including On Bunker Hill and 1947project, and through public lectures on the subject.

This tour has a significant walking component, down the stairs along Angels Flight, around Pershing Square, through several other pedestrian locations. It is broken up, but please be advised to be ready to stretch your legs.

Locations on the tour include:
Angels Flight
Grand Central Market
Mercantile Arcade Building
Bloom's General Store
A visit to artist Dave Hollen's studio

This tour is just one of our Reyner Banham Tour Series.

LAVA's 21st Sunday Salon (note new time and location)

On the last Sunday of each month, LAVA welcomes interested individuals to gather in downtown Los Angeles (noon-2pm), for a loosely structured conversational Salon featuring short presentations and opportunities to meet and connect with one another. If you're interested in joining LAVA as a creative contributor or an attendee, we recommend Salon attendance as an introduction to this growing community. Please note that due to ongoing renovation work at Clifton's Cafeteria, we are moving to a nearby location, and starting the Salon one hour earlier. 

Special program at the November 27 Salon:

 • LAVA Visionary SUSANNA DAKIN is a sculptor, performance artist, writer and once upon a time publisher of artists’ books, magazines and a community newspaper. She is currently on the Board of the 18th Street Arts Center in Santa Monica, California. She has taught sculpture and drawing, exhibited both in solo and group shows, and completed a few large-scale sculpture commissions. She has done several unique performance pieces at various venues in southern California. Dakin’s most well known work was a year-long performance campaign around the United States as “An Artist for President” in 1983-84, in which she advanced the idea that “The Nation is the art work and we the people are the artists.” The book about that campaign, as timely today as it was then, is being published in fall 2011. Dakin will reprise the campaign as a book tour.  About "An Artist for President": In 1984, Reagan was running for his second-term, while pursuing what would become a relentless, multi-decades long retreat from democratic ideals. Susanna Dakin, sculptor, performance artist and High Performance Magazine publisher, had an outlandish notion: she declared with the Federal Elections Commission as an Artist/Candidate for President of the United States. Now a compelling and high-entertaining book, as timely today as it was then, An Artist for President makes a case for the vital role of art and creativity in all aspects of life, including politics. This "biography of an event," records the loony ideas people hold about woman, artists and the political process. November is Election Month, so cast your vote for art, civil liberties and freedom of expression, by attending this fun refection on where we’ve been and where we’re going.

• LAVA is proud (and not too terrified, since we’ve been good this year!) to present the KRAMPUS CHOIR, who will literally kick-start the holiday season with their odes to the Real ghost of Christmas, Lord Krampus. You’ve heard all about Santa’s Evil Twin, who follows the Jolly One with burlap sack in hand, taking gifts away from miscreant children and giving them a thrashing to boot! This long-toothed, tongued charmer now has his very own CHOIR, who, in dulcet harmony, will regale our Visionaries and guests with such favorites as, “Bleeding through the Snow,” “O Shining Lump of Coal,”  and “Bring a Switch, Jeannette Isabella.” King Krampus himself will be on hand to autograph your child’s deficiency notices.  Don’t miss this one-time-only event! 

The Los Angeles Athletic Club is located at 431 West 7th Street, on the north-east corner of 7th and Olive Streets. When you enter the Athletic Club, inform the person at the desk that you are there as a guest of club member Richard Schave attending the LAVA event. They will sign you in, and send you upstairs to the third floor. If you want to have breakfast, please arrive no later than 10:30am. The price per person for the buffet breakfast is $15.50 (including taxes and gratuity), and the buffet includes orange juice, hot and cold cereal, yogurt, fresh and dried fruits, eggs, bacon/sausage, potatoes, muffins, croissants, etc. (Alternately, the 8th floor snack bar, which is not in the Salon space, will be open serving sandwiches, wraps and salads after 11am.) If you want to attend the Salon, you should arrive by 11am. We recommend parking under Pershing Square at Fifth and Olive, which is also the nearest Metro Station. If you order food, the Athletic Club will validate for their parking lot. 

 

LA River tour--Elysian Valley to Long Beach, w/Boyle Heights taqueria and Bell raspados

Join Friends of the Los Angeles River for a special tour with HiddenLA:
Carpool tour (option to leave midday)
Led by Jenny Price

Everyone in Los Angeles has seen the LA River, and has heard that it's being revitalized. But who knows where it is, exactly--and what exactly is happening on its banks?

Join us as we walk and drive along the river, to talk about its central role in the city's history and the necessity of the ambitious revitalization projects to LA's future.

The tour convenes at the River Center  (570 W Ave. 26, near the 5/110--8:30am sharp!--for a 9:00 departure), where we form carpools, and stops at the verdant Glendale Narrows, the historic Arroyo Seco confluence, and the industrial downtown stretch that everyone's seen in movies and on TV.
 
We'll eat lunch at an excellent Boyle Heights taqueria en route (or feel free to bring your own)--and then we'll head into the even less well-known South, to the new Maywood Riverfront Park, an optional raspados stop in Bell, and the stunning new Dominguez Gap wetland in Long Beach.

Bring snacks and water and shoes that can get a little wet.  Dogs welcome.

DIRECTIONS TO RIVER CENTER:

http://www.lamountains.com/maps/riverCenter.pdf 

(or Metro Gold Line--Lincoln/Cypress exit, W 3 blocks on Ave. 26, entrance on S side 1/2 blk after Figueroa)

LA River tour--Elysian Valley to Long Beach, w/Boyle Heights taqueria

 

Tour LA's mighty River -- w/Friends of the LA River!

Led by Jenny Price

Everyone in Los Angeles has seen the LA River, and has heard that it's being revitalized. But who knows where it is, exactly--and what exactly is happening on its banks?

Join us as we walk and drive along the river, to talk about its central role in the city's history and the necessity of the ambitious revitalization projects to LA's future.

The tour convenes at the River Center  (570 W Ave. 26, near the 5/110--9:00am sharp!--for a 9:30 departure), where we form carpools, and stops at the verdant Glendale Narrows, the historic Arroyo Seco confluence, and the industrial downtown stretch that everyone's seen in movies and on TV. 
 
We'll eat lunch at an excellent Boyle Heights taqueria en route (or feel free to bring your own)--and then we'll head into the even less well-known South, to the new Maywood Riverfront Park and the stunning new Dominguez Gap wetland in Long Beach.

 Bring snacks and water and shoes that can get a little wet.  Dogs welcome.

LA River tour--Elysian Valley to Long Beach, w/Boyle Heights taqueria (special water-in-LA tour)

Tour LA's mighty river!-- w/ Friends of the LA River.

Special water-in LA tour--with speakers from Santa Monica Baykeeper, Food & Water Watch, & Environment Now

Everyone in Los Angeles has seen the LA River, and has heard that it's being revitalized. But who knows where it is, exactly--and what exactly is happening on its banks?  On this carpool tour, we'll walk and drive along the river, as we talk about its central role in the city's history and the necessity of the ambitious revitalization to LA's future.

The tour convenes at the River Center, where we form carpools, and stops at the verdant Glendale Narrows, a new stormwater park in the same stretch, and the historic Arroyo Seco confluence, and the industrial downtown stretch that everyone's seen in movies and on TV.  We'll eat lunch at an excellent Boyle Heights taqueria en route (or you can bring your own)--and we'll head into the even less well-known South, to the new Maywood Riverfront Park and the stunning new Dominguez Gap wetland.

Led by Jenny Price.  Carpool tour-- Option to leave midday.
 
$25 adults, $20 students/seniors/nonprofits, kid rates. Family and group rates available.  

To sign up, and for more info, click HERE

The Lowdown on Downtown bus & walking tour


Esotouric's "Reyner Banham Loves Los Angeles: The Lowdown on Downtown"

Join your host Richard Schave, the founding director of the Downtown LA Art Walk non-profit, on a tour that reveals the secret history, and the fascinating future, of this most beguiling LA neighborhood.

This is a tour about the populated, vibrant mid-20th Century Downtown Los Angeles you've only heard about, and about the 21st Century Downtown which will rise again with a richness of heritage and quality of life that leaves natives and visitors gaping in disbelief. This is a tour about Downtown's invisible neighborhoods and great public spaces which managed to escape the wrecking ball. This is a tour about how gentrification sprung up on the city's meanest streets, with all the conflicts that go along with a major socio-economic shift in a small community. This is a tour about the real Los Angeles, the city even natives don't know. Get on the bus for the real Lowdown on Downtown, as no one but Esotouric's Richard Schave can reveal it.

Our tour begins in the corporate public spaces of Bunker Hill and Pershing Square, each the result of deliberate social engineering (the razing of old Bunker Hill which displaced 9,000 residents; the elimination of positive public space in Pershing Square to thwart public address and gatherings). We segue to the underappreciated yet extremely successful public spaces of the Historic Core and then to the emerging live/work community of The Old Bank District, where developer Tom Gilmore’s gentrification and the popular monthly Art Walk are bringing life to spaces which have been dead for decades. The tour concludes in the DIY loft spaces of the Arts District for a reception at an artist's gallery.

Having studied under architecture critic Reyner Banham in the mid-1980s, tour host Richard Schave has taken it upon himself to correct his teacher’s gross oversight of downtown Los Angeles, relegated to a dismissive coda in his seminal Los Angeles guidebook Los Angeles: A Study of Four Ecologies.. Richard and his wife Kim Cooper work extensively with the history and lost cultures of downtown in their bus tours, in their work for Art Walk, on blogs including On Bunker Hill and 1947project, and through public lectures on the subject.

This tour has a significant walking component, down the stairs along Angels Flight, around Pershing Square, through several other pedestrian locations. It is broken up, but please be advised to be ready to stretch your legs.

Locations on the tour include:
Angels Flight
Grand Central Market
Mercantile Arcade Building
Bloom's General Store
A visit to artist Dave Hollen's studio

This tour is just one of Esotouric's our Reyner Banham Tour Series.

LA River tour--Elysian Valley to Long Beach, w/Boyle Heights taqueria (special water-in-LA tour)

Tour the mighty Los Angeles River!-- w/ with Friends of the LA River, Santa Monica Baykeeper, Food & Water Watch, and Environment Now.

Everyone in Los Angeles has seen the LA River, and has heard that it's being revitalized. But who knows where it is, exactly--and what exactly is happening on its banks?  On this carpool tour, we'll walk and drive along the river, as we talk about its central role in the city's history and the necessity of the ambitious revitalization to LA's future.

This special Water-in-LA tour convenes at the River Center (near the 5/100), where we form carpools. We'll visit the verdant Glendale Narrows, the historic Arroyo Seco confluence, the downtown spot you've seen in all the movies, a new park in Maywood, and the spectacular new Dominguez Gap wetland in Long Beach. We'll stop for lunch at a terrific taqueria near Mariachi Plaza in Boyle Heights--or feel free to bring your own.

Led by Jenny Price, Santa Monica Baykeeper, Food & Water Watch, & Environment Now. 

Option to leave midday.  Bring snacks and water and shoes that can get a little wet.  Dogs welcome.
 
$25 adults, $20 students/seniors/nonprofits, $5 kids. Family and group rates available.  

To sign up, and for more info, click HERE.

LA River tour--All-Valley, w/ Thai noodles & Cuban sweets stops

Tour the mighty Los Angeles River!-- w/ Friends of the LA River.

Everyone in Los Angeles has seen the LA River, and has heard that it's being revitalized. But who knows where it is, exactly--and what exactly is happening on its banks?  On this carpool tour, we'll walk and drive along the river, as we talk about its central role in the city's history and the necessity of the ambitious revitalization to LA's future.

The Valley tour visits one of the least-known stretches--with stops at the headwaters, the verdant stretch in the Sepulveda Basin, the 1/2-mile-long Great Wall of LA mural and new Tujunga Wash Greenway, and the new park projects through the neighborhoods and film studios in Sherman Oaks and Studio City and beyond. We'll eat lunch at an excellent Thai noodle shop en route (other options too--or feel free to bring your lunch), and we'll end with an optional stop at the legendary Cuban bakery Porto's.

Led by Jenny Price.  Option to leave midday.

Bring snacks and water and shoes that can get just a little wet.  Dogs welcome.
 
$25 adults, $20 students/seniors/nonprofits, $5 kids. Family and group rates available.   

To sign up, and for more info, click HERE.

Boyle Heights tour

Join guest-host Sean Carrillo, NYC-based filmmaker and Boyle Heights native, and Esotouric's Richard Schave for a four-hour bus adventure through L.A.'s fascinating and poorly understood Eastside. Follow Sean on a voyage back to the old neighborhood, to find out if you really can't go home again, and what happens when you try.

Sean's and Richard's tour is a quick score of reds and ripple, or maybe a bennie and a toke. We'll roll down Whittier Boulevard, the Chicano Sunset Strip, where hustlers once roamed the sidewalks to the beat of Thee Midnighters blaring from hundreds of tricked-out rides, to the history-drenched intersection of Brooklyn (aka Cesar Chavez) & Soto, which has been spilling out of its top and up over its jeans for generations. This eternal community hot spot teems with the ghosts of Wobblies, Brown Berets, celebrated muralists, political activists and a pre-teen Mickey Cohen shaking down customers to buy his newspapers, and it's just one of the powerful sites on this tour of a neighborhood whose legends are too often oral, and whose heroes slip too easily into obscurity. We're pulling out the memory maps to spread tales that deserve a wider audience.

Over the decades the place has changed a lot, so we tackle the elusive question: What's the measure of a neighborhood? In 1947, deli man Ben Canter declared it was pickled beef, bragging that his Boyle Heights restaurant produced 7,000 pounds of pastrami monthly (while his upstart cousin on Fairfax moved scarcely half that). Masa is now the index for the community, and steamy tamales are comfort food for a whole new generation of Eastsiders.

Moratorium, blowouts, Ruben Salazar, Aida Handler (suspended from Roosevelt High in 1931 for "un-American" activities), Msgr. Ramon Garcia, All Nations Cultural Center, schmaltz (chicken fat) and schmeck (heroin), knishes to menudo, shortdogs of T-bird wine and the bottle of Manischewitz mama kept for company, from the sacred and the sacrilegious everything is fair game and given in the spirit of "con safos" (that means with respect, ese).

It's a journey from innocence to experience, with a focus on the ever-evolving quest for authenticity, and a myriad of political upheavals and social changes which have played out over the generations. It's the Eastside as you've never seen it before, and a very special Esotouric bus adventure recommended for anyone with a passion for Los Angeles, and a thirst for the unheard stories of the city.

The tour begins with special guest Michael Risner, who will give a show and tell presentation on the archives of a local Boyle Heights-based Japanese-American photographer which he accidentally rescued from Craigslist and certain destruction. There are well over 100,000 individual photographs in this rescued archive, with images from weddings to funerals, baby portraits to community events. Risner will explain his plans for preserving and displaying the archive while showing off some highlights from the collection. To learn more about Michael's discovery, see this L.A. Weekly feature or the video from his presentation at LAVA's Sunday Salon.

The New Chinatowns tour

Esotouric presents: Reyner Banham Loves Los Angeles: The New Chinatowns: San Gabriel Valley

In the past three decades the communities of Alhambra and Monterey Park, nestled in the foothills of the southwestern San Gabriel Valley, have transformed themselves from sleepy suburban bedroom communities (bursting at the seams from a 1950s housing explosion) to the nexus of a pan-Asian megalopolis spreading east to Diamond Bar and beyond to the county line. Fueled by immigration from Taiwan, Hong Kong, more recently South East Asia, these communities have found their identity, their economic base, and have come into their own as a new type of American “chinatown.”

Hosted by Richard Schave, THE NEW CHINATOWNS is an entertaining and illuminating historical and cultural bus tour that rolls through Alhambra, San Gabriel, Rosemead and (mainly) Monterey Park exploring significant people, remarkable places and delicious delicacies. Join us as we explore the region's fascinating history, from the land and oil booms of the 1920s, its halcyon postwar days as a suburban outpost for lower middle class Angelenos, the birthplace of the Hula Hoop (Wham-o Industries), to the “white flight” of the 1970s which created the vacuum that facilitated the first wave of migration from China. Among the significant sites on our itinerary:

* The Venice Room (Monterey Park), a groovy grill-your-own-steak bar, still family-run after forty years.
* Browning Realty (Monterey Park), site of the 1920s oil mania and still a family enterprise after eighty-plus years.
* El Encanto (Monterey Park), exquisite showplace of the failed 1920s luxury housing development intended as the Beverly Hills of the East.
* Mission Superhardware (San Gabriel), still run by the Fabriano family after more than seven decades, and previously where Howard Roach built some of the Southland's first television sets.
* Site of the original Laura Scudder potato chip factory (Monterey Park).
* Pioneering purveyors of high quality Asian herbs, teas and notions, Wing Hop Fung, for a tea tasting.

Today Monterey Park is at the crossroads of economic development. After three decades spent fostering independent businesses-fueled by immigrant’s dreams and sweat, the city is looking to bring in big business, which it claims is desperately needed for its tax base. Can this unique and quintessentially independent community survive another identity crisis, another land boom, this time of a distinctly corporate nature?

Special attention will be paid in the route to a compelling side effect of this sociological revolution: the best Asian food in the world is here as well. We will end the tour with a tea tasting at Wing Hop Fung.

This tour is just one on our Reyner Banham Tour Series.